Embroidery is an art used to beautify or decorate a fabric with the use of thread or yarn stitched into the fabric with a needle. It is essentially a handicraft or even created with the use of sewing machines to produce machine embroidery. One can also make the use of materials like sequins, spangles, pearls or beads to decorate the fabric. Embroidery has been in existence since 3000 BC. Ancient embroidery artifacts have survived from Egypt, Iron Age Northern Europe and Song Dynasty China. The art of traditional hand embroidery has been passed on to generations that have been diverse in cultures some of which include Vietnam, Mexico and Eastern Europe. This art is again a manifestation of man’s ability to create beautiful things and has since evolved and today embellishments and embroidery are an integral part of fashion.
Embroidery types can be classified according to two divisions. The first is according to the stitch formed on the fabric. These include:
· FREE EMBROIDERY:
This is a form of “surface embroidery” in which the designs or patterns are stitched without taking the weave of the underlying fabric into account. A few examples of free embroidery styles are:
Appliqué: This is a decorative design made of one material sewn over another.
Art Needlework: This type of embroidery was famous in the late nineteenth century. Art needlework essentially focused on satin stitch in silk thread to create shading often coupled with other novelty stitches. Art needlework was introduced to America at the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia.
Crewel Embroidery: Crewelwork is a form of surface embroidery to decorate a fabric using wool and various kinds of embroidery stitches to create designs outlined on the fabric. It is essentially a form of embroidery done with loosely twisted worsted yarn. However the modern crewel wool is a fine 2 ply yarn in varied colors. The fabric used for this usually linen or cotton. Special crewel needles are used for this artwork characterized by big eyes and sharp points. Different types of stitches are used in crewelwork which include stem stitch, chain stitch, split stitch, satin stitch, couched stitch, seed stitch etc. The design outline is often screen printed onto the fabric or by using transfer techniques like transfer sheets. Crewelwork is often used to decorate cushions, curtains, clothing, wall hangings etc.
Jacobean Embroidery: This form of embroidery style gained popularity under the reign of King James I in the first quarter of the seventeenth century. A popular pattern in the Jacobean embroidery is the “tree of life”. However, the early patterns in this form of embroidery featured mainly floral designs in colored silks or linen. Jacobean embroidered jackets for men and women were popular in the period 1600-1620. Then the British colonists carried the Jacobean embroidery tradition to Colonial America where it gained considerable popularity.
Stumpwork: In this style of embroidery a 3-dimensional effect is achieved by a raised stitched figure from the surface of fabric. Patterns like leaves or flower petals are created by forming stitches around pieces of wire. This form is then applied to the main body of work by piercing the background fabric with the wires and securing tightly.
Bayeux Tapestry: The Bayeux tapestry is essentially a 50 cm by 70 m (20 in by 230 ft) long embroidered cloth which portrays the historical events leading up to, as well as, the Norman invasion of England in 1066. It is presently exhibited in a special museum in Bayeux, Normandy, France. The tapestry was rediscovered in the late 17th century in Bayeux.
Cutwork: Cutwork is needlework or embroidery technique in which the design is outlined in a buttonhole stitch and the intervening material is cut away. The decorative styles that “cutwork” include are Broderie Anglaise, Carrickmacross lace, whitework, and early reticella.
Quaker Tapestry: The Quaker tapestry comprises of 77 panels depicting the history of Quakerism (The theological doctrine of the Society of Friends characterized by opposition to war and rejection of ritual and a formal creed and an ordained ministry) from the 17th century up to the present day. This tapestry is worked in crewel embroidery. Besides using the split stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch and Peking knot a new stitch called the Quaker stitch was invented by Wynn-Wilson.
Whitework Embroidery: This is traditionally done on white linen and is essentially an embroidery technique in which the stitching and fabric are of same color. Styles of whitework embroidery include most drawn thread work, Broderie Anglaise, Hardanger embroidery and Reticella. Articles like baby bonnets, blouses etc can be made by employing this artistic technique.
· COUNTED THREAD EMBROIDERY:
In this type of embroidery, patterns are created and the threads of fabrics are counted for making a stitch or inserting the needle into the fabric. It uses open weave fabric as the foundation fabric and is just the opposite of free embroidery. The counted-thread embroidery techniques are as follows:
Assisi Embroidery: This is a form of traditional Italian embroidery in which the background is filled with embroidery stitches and the motifs or patterns are left empty or void (with no embroidery stitches). Usually cross-stitch is used to decorate the background and Holbein stitch is used for outlining the motif. It was in the sixteenth century that the Assisi embroidery flourished in motifs based on Renaissance imagery of satyrs, demons and ancient mythical creatures. The embroidery however faced a decline in the eighteenth and nineteenth century and again revived in the 20th century. In 1902 the ‘Laboratorio Ricreativo Festivo Femminile San Francesco di Assisi’ was established in its endeavor to provide employment to poor women as well as to revive and maintain the rich traditions of handicraft arts. Today, modern Assisi has evolved using varied patterns and motifs as well as varied colors.
Bargello: This is a type of needlepoint embroidery stitch that produces zigzag lines. It is termed as “Florentine Work” or “Flame Stitch”. The name finds its origin from the chairs found in Bargello Palace in Florence which had flame stitch patterns. Conventionally, it was done in wool on canvas. This kind of embroidery is not done on clothing. However, it is suitable for pillows, upholstery and even carpets. Patterns created could include geometric designs, flowers or fruits. It is a very intricate form of embroidery and requires precise counting of squares.
Blackwork Embroidery: This is a form of embroidery done on an even-weave fabric stitched in black thread on a white fabric. Firmly twisted black threads are usually used for a better and more ornate look. Also, conventionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on linen or cotton fabrics. The stitches employed include the Holbein stitch (double running stitch) as well as stem stitch. In the olden days in England (the era of Henry VIII), blackwork was done on smocks or shirts. During the reign of Elizabeth I it was widely used to make cushion covers etc. Then towards the 17th century, its popularity declined considerably. However, modern day blackwork has evolved and popular motifs include maps, chessboards etc.
Cross-Stitch: This form of embroidery is categorized under the counted thread embroidery. i.e. in which the threads of fabrics are counted for making a stitch. As the term suggests cross-stitch is cross or X- shaped stitches that form designs or patterns on even weave fabrics. This art is used to decorate dishcloths, household linens, and doilies etc. The art is even used to make wall hangings of plain pieces of canvas.
Hardanger Embroidery: This embroidery technique uses white thread to be worked on a white even-weave fabric. It is said to have originated in Persia and Asia. During the Renaissance this early form of embroidery spread to Italy where it evolved into Italian Reticella and Ventian lacework. It was between the period of 1650-1850 this embroidery found its popularity in Norway. Satin stitch is used in this form of embroidery known as Kloster blocks. It also includes Fly stitch, Running stitch, Cable stitch and French knots. Usually geometric patterns are created with this type of embroidery and are used to embellish cushions, table linen and other household items as well as wall hangings.
Needlepoint: This embroidery consisting of allover embroidered canvas resembling tapestry. Hence it is a form of canvas work using thread stitches on canvas. The threads used could be wool, silk or cotton or a combination of them. Unlike other forms of embroidery, needlepoint uses the canvas, to create a new fabric. There are three types of needlepoint canvas: mono, penelope, and interlock depending on how the canvas is woven.
The second division of embroidery category is according to the patterns, motifs or designs created by stitching on top or through the fabric material. These include:
· SURFACE EMBROIDERY:
In this type of embroidery the patterns or designs are created by forming stitches on top of the fabric rather than through the ground fabric.
Different forms of surface embroidery are as follows:
Appliqué
Art Needlework
Crewel Embroidery
Cross Stitch
Jacobean Embroidery
Stumpwork
Its examples include:
Bayeux Tapestry
Quaker Tapestry
· CANVAS WORK:
In canvas work, dense or heavy patterns are created and threads are stitched through the fabric material. The canvases can be either hand painted or have a printed image. The most popular types of canvas work include: Needlepoint, Petit Point and Bargello. The canvas is usually an even-weave mesh with large holes facilitating the movement of heavy yarns or thread. The Aida cloth or Hardanger fabric can also be used for canvas work, and plastic canvas is used for craft projects. In ancient times, tent, continental or basket weave stitches were used for canvas work. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has on display the “Bradford Carpet” a well-known example of canvas work.
Embroidery done in India has gained wide popularity and is much in demand even in the international market. Following are the types of Indian embroidery:
Zardozi Embroidery: It is also termed as metal embroidery or metallic appliqué embroidery. It uses gold or silver zari threads to decorate fabrics. It finds its genesis in Persia and flourished considerably under the reign of Akbar the Mughal Emperor. However, it gradually declined under the rule of Aurangzeb. After India acquired independence, this art revived in Hyderabad and Lucknow. Today it is a popular form of embroidery and used widely for Indian ethnic and wedding trousseau. A crochet hook is used with metallic threads and the stitch resembles a chain stitch. It imparts a rich and ornate feel to the fabric it is worked on. It is done on wall hangings, bed sheets, garments, and fabric purses. The commonly used fabrics include crepe, silk, brocade and velvet. The embroidery additionally uses beads, dabka, coiled wires, sequins etc. as embellishments.
Mirror Embroidery: This form of embroidery finds its origin during the 13th century in Persia. Mirror work is always coupled with other forms of embroidery using different size and shaped mirrors as embellishments. This art is specially practiced in the Indian states of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Orissa. Usually vibrant colored threads are used in this form of embroidery like red, green, blue, yellow, black, maroon among others. This art is done by machine as well as hand. However, the latter is more costly and time consuming. It is usually used on ethnic garments as well as on Indo-western outfits and is fast gaining popularity in the west as well. The art is also used to embellish cushion covers, purses, bed sheets, curtains, wearable garments, wall hangings, decorative items, laces, etc.
Kantha Embroidery: The kantha embroidery is widely practiced in West Bengal. This embroidery uses a running stitch and is used to decorate quilts, bed sheets, blankets, saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc. Patterns like human beings, animals, flowers, geometric designs and mythological figures are usually created with this kind of embroidery. The different types of Kantha include Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha and Oaar kantha.
Chikankari Embroidery: This embroidery is popular in the city of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh in India. In the earlier days, this embroidery was on muslin cloth with white thread. Modern Chikankari however is done on various fabrics including cotton, linen nylon, georgette, chiffon and synthetic fabrics. Even curtains, bed sheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers are tastefully decorated with this type of embroidery. Usually floral motifs are popular in this art work. The various stitches used in this kind of embroidery include chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and running stitch. The three main types of Chikankari stitches include Jali work, Flat stitches, and Embossed stitches. This embroidery is highly favored and in demand in the western countries.
Banjara Embroidery: Banjaras are mainly the tribal communities of India who have developed a typical embroidery style characteristic of their cultures, traditions and tastes. The distinct feature of their embroidery is mirror work and/or bead work. Shells and other colorful threads are also incorporated as embellishments. The most common creations of this embroidery include ghagras, (traditional skirt like attire), blouses, men’s jackets, bags, bed covers, wall hangings, belts and other décor items.
Kashmiri Embroidery: This style of embroidery is also called “Kashida” is common to the state of Kashmir and uses different embroidery stitches to create patterns of flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. Generally a cool color like white or crème is taken as the base cloth in wool or cotton.
Phulkari Embroidery: This type of embroidery essentially comprises of floral motifs and is traditional art embroidery of Punjab. Veils or “dupattas”, home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa covers and other soft furnishings are decorated with style of embroidery. The history of this embroidery style can be traced back to 2000 years back. Usually it is done on khadi cloth using the silk floss yarn called ‘pat’.