Archive for the ‘Saree’ Category

Celebrity fashion styles help an online shop produce profits

Wednesday, May 9th, 2007

Celebrity fashion apparel remains everlastingly in demand given that everyone just has to emulate their favorite star or at least feel like one if given a chance. Fashion websites are making the most of this by churning out items that are identical to those worn by celebrities, especially Hollywood stars. One such website is Asos.com which is completely cashing in on this demand and recently witnessed a 111% increase in sales.

In March alone the website witnessed visitors which usually comprise of women aged 18 to 34. The website, Asos which was formerly called As Seen on Screen unabashedly showcases and sells replicated versions of clothes donned by celebrity style icons. The merchandize comprises of clothes, bags, shoes, accessories as well as make up that is seemingly “in vogue” for a number of style icons. Many of the items offered are quite inexpensive where a range of party dresses are priced at £30 or £35.

Fashion statements of style icons like Mischa Barton, Victoria Beckham, Lindsay Lohan, Kate Moss and many others is in turn generating substantial sales for this website as people want to emulate their styles. ASOS, which serves 18 to 34-year-olds with fashion items similar to those worn by celebrities, posted sales of £38.4 million for the 12 months to March 31. Even the conventional high street outlets are not able to keep pace with the company which is expecting a consistent growth for this year of a staggering 80per cent.

The current best seller of the company remains a Mina Sienna Mini Dress, which is a genuine version of a dress worn by the actress Sienna Miller. The dress with slightly puffed capped sleeves with a fold over neckline and lace edging is priced at £55.

The collection also includes a £90 French Connection Sequin Trim Silk Dress as seen on Mischa Barton and a full length Ted Baker Eva Silk Leaf Print Dress as seen on Eva Longoria, from the hit US series Desperate Housewives. The other “in vogue” items include a £15 Coconut & Stone Trim Bikini as worn by Cameron Diaz, a backless Puffball Dress in the style of Victoria Beckham at £30 and cropped wrap-over Mac in the style of Kylie Minogue for £55.

Asos although perceived as a copycat fashion website is perfectly catering to the desires of people who are fascinated by style icons’ sartorial trends. The popularity of Asos has reached a peak validated by the fact that women prefer to visit the website rather than the high street stores.

Asos has also launched its magazine to further satiate the desires of customers and enhance their “in demand” quotient. The May edition of their magazine features Kylie Minogue on the cover. The co-founder and chief executive of Asos, Nick Robertson, said: “We are benefiting from a fair wind from online retailing in general, with the consensus expecting 30-40per cent market growth this year, but we can get up to 80per cent with an increased investment in marketing and the celebrity fashion magazine. A magazine packed with the latest fashion news and trends is the perfect medium to reinforce our celebrity fashion credentials. The overall fashion market is not growing to any great degree, so as we grow it will start to hurt others.”

He expressed a nonchalant remark about this week’s high profile launch of the Kate Moss-designed clothing range for Topshop. “It’s an interesting play - good luck to them,” he said. He further added that “Topshop sales will be phenomenal over the coming days - it’s a celebrity endorsed model and she’s the biggest celebrity, but they happen a lot in this industry.”
The coming week will also witness the launch of a collection by singer Lily Allen. The collection is caters to the real women with curves and will help accentuate the curves of a woman.

Pakistan Witnesses the Comeback of the ubiquitous Indian Sari

Tuesday, May 8th, 2007

The Sari in Pakistan did a disappearing act after it was declared un-Islamic by Zia. But the whole six yards has made a comeback in the form of formal wear as well as in the trousseaus of Pak girls. Therefore, Pakistan is seeing the resurgence of the Saris in a big way. Earlier the Sari was donned by prominent women like Fatima Jinnah, Begum Liaqat Ali and Nusrat Bhutto. However, later Gen Zia declared that saris implied an un-Islamic connotation and that’s when the Saris lost their grip on the Pakistani fashion and gradually started to fade away.

Today the strong revival of the Sari in Pakistan has lead to many women dressed in this attire. Many women consider it as a symbol of independence and individuality. Popular Indian soaps have essentially contributed to the revival of the sari. The intricate and ornate saris are a favorite as a bridal wear. The tall and stately Nusrat Bhutto was one of the first ladies of Pakistan to wield power. She was usually seen in exquisite silk saris accessorized by pearl necklaces. However, her daughter Benazir Bhutto preferred the salwar kameez over the sari. She would team this up with a green jacket and a white chiffon dupatta, pinned properly to her head. This was more of an expression of nationalism than making a fashion statement.

The sari is a “softer” image of Pakistan that reveals too much of a woman’s body for an Islamic republic. No Pakistani woman parliamentarian today goes to the assembly in a sari. However, the fashion conscious Pakistani women are boldly donning the elegant attire, enough to make a splash and stir up and vex the zealots. Finally the mid riff baring attire has found its way back on the Pakistani soil. However, the salwar kameez still reigns supreme and is widely preferred over the sari. Nonetheless, the sari is not imperiled to become defunct.

The sari is not only worn by the Parsis and Hindus but also by women from (non-Punjabi) Urdu-speaking families. “My mother still doesn’t own a formal salwar kameez,” says Amna Jamot, who belongs to a family of middle-class Urdu-speaking migrants. “She wore only saris and it comes naturally to her generation.” Quite often at the age of 18, Pakistani girls are allowed to wear a sari to their graduation party, Pakistan’s fashion equivalent of prom night. The sari lends them the ultimate feel of womanhood, independence and elegance. It’s also become an expression of freedom and rebellion for celebrities like Ali Saleem, Pakistan’s most famous cross-dresser. Begum Nawazish Ali hosts a popular talk show on AAJ TV. Ali wears exquisite designer saris which are quite exotic and intricately embellished. In fact Ali’s ultimate fantasy is to “die performing on a glass stage in the middle of a vast sea with the whole world watching”!

However wearing a sari gathers one a lot of attention and many members of the Hindu minority living in Karachi have experienced this feeling. Moreover, the sari has become an almost indispensable piece of attire especially on special occasions like weddings and festivals. “I’ve always worn the sari,” says Ira Bai, a Hindu housemaid working in the city’s posh Bath Island. “But my daughter now wears the salwar kameez. She lives in Hyderabad and commutes a lot between cities. Wearing the sari attracts too much unwanted attention.”

Pakistan’s trendiest fashion designer, Deepak Perwani, belongs to a Hindu household but confesses a disinterest in reviving saris in Pakistan. He however prefers to create trendy fashionable clothing for the fashion conscious elite.

“I design for the young, and the young in Pakistan don’t wear saris,” he says. Out of every 100 clients only seven or eight will go for one, he adds. “It’s an extremely elegant garment and the salwar kameez can never replace that elegance and style, but the sari belongs to the gentry of Pakistan or the older generation. The old aunties still wear saris but it’s just not practical for the modern woman.” However, when it comes to his bride he would prefer her to be attired in the whole six yards when he decides to take the plunge.

According to Pakistan’s ace bridal couturiers Umar Sayeed the revival of the sari is seen in Pakistan largely contributed by the demand of formal and bridal wear. According to him, it’s the increasing demand for saris for weddings that allows sari-manufacturing areas like Karachi’s Orangi Town to prosper.

“Someone must be buying these saris for the production to be on a constant high,” he says. “As a designer I see a 1:3 ratio (of saris to salwar kameezes) and brides from all over Pakistan are coming to us for saris to wear to their Valimas (a traditional dinner hosted by the groom’s parents one day after the main wedding ceremony). The demand for bridal saris is increasing. They are timeless and people realize the worth of investing in them.”

The chairperson of Fashion Pakistan, one of Pakistan’s fashion councils, Maheen Khan has altered the style of the sari in a bid to modernize the attire. She has created the ‘half-sari’, a two piece combination that tucks a separate dupatta into a folded petticoat. Pakistani designer saris are made of delicate chiffon fabric and usually intricately embellished. These come at a price tag of at least Rs.50, 000 Pakistani rupees.

Younger generations prefer saris in simple chiffons or light silks teamed with a stylish sleeveless blouse. As far as cotton saris go, India is the best place to look for quality and genuineness. Designer saris are best preferred for formal wear.

The Indian cinema and soaps have hugely contributed to the resurrection of the sari in Pakistan; however its presence is felt stronger in the south as compared to north. Karachi in particular houses a vast variety in saris as it is home to various communities. In northern Pakistan, the sari is usually preferred essentially as a bridal wear. In the North Western Frontier, however the sari disappears completely or remains hidden behind the burqa.

Different Types of Embroidery

Wednesday, April 11th, 2007

Embroidery is an art used to beautify or decorate a fabric with the use of thread or yarn stitched into the fabric with a needle. It is essentially a handicraft or even created with the use of sewing machines to produce machine embroidery. One can also make the use of materials like sequins, spangles, pearls or beads to decorate the fabric. Embroidery has been in existence since 3000 BC. Ancient embroidery artifacts have survived from Egypt, Iron Age Northern Europe and Song Dynasty China. The art of traditional hand embroidery has been passed on to generations that have been diverse in cultures some of which include Vietnam, Mexico and Eastern Europe. This art is again a manifestation of man’s ability to create beautiful things and has since evolved and today embellishments and embroidery are an integral part of fashion.

Embroidery types can be classified according to two divisions. The first is according to the stitch formed on the fabric. These include:
· FREE EMBROIDERY:
This is a form of “surface embroidery” in which the designs or patterns are stitched without taking the weave of the underlying fabric into account. A few examples of free embroidery styles are:

Appliqué: This is a decorative design made of one material sewn over another.
Art Needlework: This type of embroidery was famous in the late nineteenth century. Art needlework essentially focused on satin stitch in silk thread to create shading often coupled with other novelty stitches. Art needlework was introduced to America at the 1876 Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia.
Crewel Embroidery: Crewelwork is a form of surface embroidery to decorate a fabric using wool and various kinds of embroidery stitches to create designs outlined on the fabric. It is essentially a form of embroidery done with loosely twisted worsted yarn. However the modern crewel wool is a fine 2 ply yarn in varied colors. The fabric used for this usually linen or cotton. Special crewel needles are used for this artwork characterized by big eyes and sharp points. Different types of stitches are used in crewelwork which include stem stitch, chain stitch, split stitch, satin stitch, couched stitch, seed stitch etc. The design outline is often screen printed onto the fabric or by using transfer techniques like transfer sheets. Crewelwork is often used to decorate cushions, curtains, clothing, wall hangings etc.
Jacobean Embroidery: This form of embroidery style gained popularity under the reign of King James I in the first quarter of the seventeenth century. A popular pattern in the Jacobean embroidery is the “tree of life”. However, the early patterns in this form of embroidery featured mainly floral designs in colored silks or linen. Jacobean embroidered jackets for men and women were popular in the period 1600-1620. Then the British colonists carried the Jacobean embroidery tradition to Colonial America where it gained considerable popularity.
Stumpwork: In this style of embroidery a 3-dimensional effect is achieved by a raised stitched figure from the surface of fabric. Patterns like leaves or flower petals are created by forming stitches around pieces of wire. This form is then applied to the main body of work by piercing the background fabric with the wires and securing tightly.
Bayeux Tapestry: The Bayeux tapestry is essentially a 50 cm by 70 m (20 in by 230 ft) long embroidered cloth which portrays the historical events leading up to, as well as, the Norman invasion of England in 1066. It is presently exhibited in a special museum in Bayeux, Normandy, France. The tapestry was rediscovered in the late 17th century in Bayeux.
Cutwork: Cutwork is needlework or embroidery technique in which the design is outlined in a buttonhole stitch and the intervening material is cut away. The decorative styles that “cutwork” include are Broderie Anglaise, Carrickmacross lace, whitework, and early reticella.
Quaker Tapestry: The Quaker tapestry comprises of 77 panels depicting the history of Quakerism (The theological doctrine of the Society of Friends characterized by opposition to war and rejection of ritual and a formal creed and an ordained ministry) from the 17th century up to the present day. This tapestry is worked in crewel embroidery. Besides using the split stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch and Peking knot a new stitch called the Quaker stitch was invented by Wynn-Wilson.
Whitework Embroidery: This is traditionally done on white linen and is essentially an embroidery technique in which the stitching and fabric are of same color. Styles of whitework embroidery include most drawn thread work, Broderie Anglaise, Hardanger embroidery and Reticella. Articles like baby bonnets, blouses etc can be made by employing this artistic technique.
· COUNTED THREAD EMBROIDERY:
In this type of embroidery, patterns are created and the threads of fabrics are counted for making a stitch or inserting the needle into the fabric. It uses open weave fabric as the foundation fabric and is just the opposite of free embroidery. The counted-thread embroidery techniques are as follows:
Assisi Embroidery: This is a form of traditional Italian embroidery in which the background is filled with embroidery stitches and the motifs or patterns are left empty or void (with no embroidery stitches). Usually cross-stitch is used to decorate the background and Holbein stitch is used for outlining the motif. It was in the sixteenth century that the Assisi embroidery flourished in motifs based on Renaissance imagery of satyrs, demons and ancient mythical creatures. The embroidery however faced a decline in the eighteenth and nineteenth century and again revived in the 20th century. In 1902 the ‘Laboratorio Ricreativo Festivo Femminile San Francesco di Assisi’ was established in its endeavor to provide employment to poor women as well as to revive and maintain the rich traditions of handicraft arts. Today, modern Assisi has evolved using varied patterns and motifs as well as varied colors.
Bargello: This is a type of needlepoint embroidery stitch that produces zigzag lines. It is termed as “Florentine Work” or “Flame Stitch”. The name finds its origin from the chairs found in Bargello Palace in Florence which had flame stitch patterns. Conventionally, it was done in wool on canvas. This kind of embroidery is not done on clothing. However, it is suitable for pillows, upholstery and even carpets. Patterns created could include geometric designs, flowers or fruits. It is a very intricate form of embroidery and requires precise counting of squares.
Blackwork Embroidery: This is a form of embroidery done on an even-weave fabric stitched in black thread on a white fabric. Firmly twisted black threads are usually used for a better and more ornate look. Also, conventionally blackwork is stitched in silk thread on linen or cotton fabrics. The stitches employed include the Holbein stitch (double running stitch) as well as stem stitch. In the olden days in England (the era of Henry VIII), blackwork was done on smocks or shirts. During the reign of Elizabeth I it was widely used to make cushion covers etc. Then towards the 17th century, its popularity declined considerably. However, modern day blackwork has evolved and popular motifs include maps, chessboards etc.
Cross-Stitch: This form of embroidery is categorized under the counted thread embroidery. i.e. in which the threads of fabrics are counted for making a stitch. As the term suggests cross-stitch is cross or X- shaped stitches that form designs or patterns on even weave fabrics. This art is used to decorate dishcloths, household linens, and doilies etc. The art is even used to make wall hangings of plain pieces of canvas.
Hardanger Embroidery: This embroidery technique uses white thread to be worked on a white even-weave fabric. It is said to have originated in Persia and Asia. During the Renaissance this early form of embroidery spread to Italy where it evolved into Italian Reticella and Ventian lacework. It was between the period of 1650-1850 this embroidery found its popularity in Norway. Satin stitch is used in this form of embroidery known as Kloster blocks. It also includes Fly stitch, Running stitch, Cable stitch and French knots. Usually geometric patterns are created with this type of embroidery and are used to embellish cushions, table linen and other household items as well as wall hangings.
Needlepoint: This embroidery consisting of allover embroidered canvas resembling tapestry. Hence it is a form of canvas work using thread stitches on canvas. The threads used could be wool, silk or cotton or a combination of them. Unlike other forms of embroidery, needlepoint uses the canvas, to create a new fabric. There are three types of needlepoint canvas: mono, penelope, and interlock depending on how the canvas is woven.
The second division of embroidery category is according to the patterns, motifs or designs created by stitching on top or through the fabric material. These include:
· SURFACE EMBROIDERY:
In this type of embroidery the patterns or designs are created by forming stitches on top of the fabric rather than through the ground fabric.
Different forms of surface embroidery are as follows:
Appliqué
Art Needlework
Crewel Embroidery
Cross Stitch
Jacobean Embroidery
Stumpwork
Its examples include:
Bayeux Tapestry
Quaker Tapestry
· CANVAS WORK:
In canvas work, dense or heavy patterns are created and threads are stitched through the fabric material. The canvases can be either hand painted or have a printed image. The most popular types of canvas work include: Needlepoint, Petit Point and Bargello. The canvas is usually an even-weave mesh with large holes facilitating the movement of heavy yarns or thread. The Aida cloth or Hardanger fabric can also be used for canvas work, and plastic canvas is used for craft projects. In ancient times, tent, continental or basket weave stitches were used for canvas work. The Victoria and Albert Museum in London has on display the “Bradford Carpet” a well-known example of canvas work.

Embroidery done in India has gained wide popularity and is much in demand even in the international market. Following are the types of Indian embroidery:
Zardozi Embroidery: It is also termed as metal embroidery or metallic appliqué embroidery. It uses gold or silver zari threads to decorate fabrics. It finds its genesis in Persia and flourished considerably under the reign of Akbar the Mughal Emperor. However, it gradually declined under the rule of Aurangzeb. After India acquired independence, this art revived in Hyderabad and Lucknow. Today it is a popular form of embroidery and used widely for Indian ethnic and wedding trousseau. A crochet hook is used with metallic threads and the stitch resembles a chain stitch. It imparts a rich and ornate feel to the fabric it is worked on. It is done on wall hangings, bed sheets, garments, and fabric purses. The commonly used fabrics include crepe, silk, brocade and velvet. The embroidery additionally uses beads, dabka, coiled wires, sequins etc. as embellishments.
Mirror Embroidery: This form of embroidery finds its origin during the 13th century in Persia. Mirror work is always coupled with other forms of embroidery using different size and shaped mirrors as embellishments. This art is specially practiced in the Indian states of Gujarat, Rajasthan and Orissa. Usually vibrant colored threads are used in this form of embroidery like red, green, blue, yellow, black, maroon among others. This art is done by machine as well as hand. However, the latter is more costly and time consuming. It is usually used on ethnic garments as well as on Indo-western outfits and is fast gaining popularity in the west as well. The art is also used to embellish cushion covers, purses, bed sheets, curtains, wearable garments, wall hangings, decorative items, laces, etc.
Kantha Embroidery: The kantha embroidery is widely practiced in West Bengal. This embroidery uses a running stitch and is used to decorate quilts, bed sheets, blankets, saris, salwar suits, stoles, napkins, etc. Patterns like human beings, animals, flowers, geometric designs and mythological figures are usually created with this kind of embroidery. The different types of Kantha include Sujani kantha, Durjani kantha, Lep kantha, Archilata kantha, Rumal kantha and Oaar kantha.
Chikankari Embroidery: This embroidery is popular in the city of Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh in India. In the earlier days, this embroidery was on muslin cloth with white thread. Modern Chikankari however is done on various fabrics including cotton, linen nylon, georgette, chiffon and synthetic fabrics. Even curtains, bed sheets, table cloths, pillow covers and cushion covers are tastefully decorated with this type of embroidery. Usually floral motifs are popular in this art work. The various stitches used in this kind of embroidery include chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, French knots and running stitch. The three main types of Chikankari stitches include Jali work, Flat stitches, and Embossed stitches. This embroidery is highly favored and in demand in the western countries.
Banjara Embroidery: Banjaras are mainly the tribal communities of India who have developed a typical embroidery style characteristic of their cultures, traditions and tastes. The distinct feature of their embroidery is mirror work and/or bead work. Shells and other colorful threads are also incorporated as embellishments. The most common creations of this embroidery include ghagras, (traditional skirt like attire), blouses, men’s jackets, bags, bed covers, wall hangings, belts and other décor items.
Kashmiri Embroidery: This style of embroidery is also called “Kashida” is common to the state of Kashmir and uses different embroidery stitches to create patterns of flowers, creepers and chinar leaves, mango etc. Generally a cool color like white or crème is taken as the base cloth in wool or cotton.
Phulkari Embroidery: This type of embroidery essentially comprises of floral motifs and is traditional art embroidery of Punjab. Veils or “dupattas”, home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa covers and other soft furnishings are decorated with style of embroidery. The history of this embroidery style can be traced back to 2000 years back. Usually it is done on khadi cloth using the silk floss yarn called ‘pat’.